Japanese summer in Osaka can be brutal - high temperatures coupled with high humidity. Hence most people prefer to stay indoors to avoid the sweltering weather. However, there are still many outdoor options to be explored so that you can maximize the summer. Of course, the beach is a no-brainer, but summer in Japan is also a great time to visit the mountains.
The mountains, with their cool, crisp air, and the lush forests make it a great escape from the city and the heat. One of the best places to go in Japan is Kamikochi.
Where is Kamikochi?
Kamikochi is a highland valley that is part of a mountain range known as the Japanese Alps that spans from Gifu Prefecture in West Japan to Niigata Prefecture in East Japan. Kamikochi itself is located within Nagano prefecture and is accessible from either Takayama in Gifu Prefecture or Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture.
It is located in the expansive Chubu Sangaku National Park which includes many other natural spots like Mt. Tateyama, Mt Norikura, Kurobe River and loads more. Because of that, it is a prime jumping-off point to visit most of the highlights of the nature park.
How to get there?
Kamikochi can only be accessed by bus - driving your personal car is not allowed within the park. If you plan to drive, the closest parking area would be either the Sawando Parking Area near Matsumoto or the Hirayu Onsen Parking Area near Takayama. From these parking areas, you can board a bus bound from Kamikochi and it takes between 20 to 30 minutes.
As the bus service is your only option, there are several starting points from various locations. Depending on the season, there are direct bus services from Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. However, the two most common starting point is either Matsumoto or Takayama.
From Matsumoto, there are two ways.Depending on your departure time, you can get on a direct bus to Kamikochi. Alternatively, you can take the Alpico Railway’s Matsumoto Dentetsu train from Matsumoto Station to Shin-Shimashima Station. It will take about 30 minutes. After that, transfer for an Alpico bus from the Shin-Shimashima Station bound for Kamikochi for another hour. Do note that you need to book your return journey on the Alpico bus to and fro Shin-Shimashima Station.
1. Matsumoto Bus terminal (by bus) * -> Kamikochi Bus Terminal ( (¥2,570 one-way)
2. Matsumoto Station (by train) * -> Shin-Shimashima Station (by bus) -> Kamikochi Bus Terminal (¥2,710 one-way)
* Refer to this link for bus/train schedule & fare: Alpico Bus
If you are starting from Takayama as I did, take the Nohi Bus from the Nohi Takayama Bus Center (which is next to the Takayama JR Station) to Hirayu Onsen Bus Terminal. It takes approximately an hour. Following that, transfer to a bus from Hirayu Onsen to Kamikochi which will take just under 30 minutes. You can buy return tickets in person at the ticket office in the Nohi Takayama Bus Center.
Nohi Takayama Bus Center ** -> Hirayu Onsen Bus Terminal -> Kamikochi Bus Terminal ( (¥5,130 return)
**refer to this link for the bus schedule: Nohi Bus Kamikochi Line
What to do in Kamikochi?
Once you are in Kamikochi, there are various trekking trails that you can take which lead you to various sights within Kamikochi. I recommend coming first thing in the morning, say around 8 am and leaving around 4 pm. It will give you plenty of time to visit most of the popular spots in Kamikochi.
I recommend getting off at the Taisho Pond (Taishoike) bus stop (next to Taishoike Hotel) which is a couple stops from Kamikochi Bus Terminal. It will save you time from having to do a return trip from the bus terminal to Taisho Pond. From Taisho Pond, follow the path towards the Kappa Bridge. Don’t worry about getting lost. The trails are clearly marked and there are several signposts along the way. Starting from Taisho Pond would also be an easy start to your trek in Kamikochi as it is mostly flat.
It will take you around 1-2 hours from Taisho Pond to Kappa Bridge, longer if you get distracted, just like I was, by many photo-ops along the trail.
Once you have arrived in the general area of Kappa Bridge, I recommend taking a break to have an early lunch. There are several restaurants and cafes that sell a variety of Japanese staples like Japanese noodles, curry rice, croquettes, as well as seasonal apple desserts like apple shaved ice or soft-serve. Hence, take your time and enjoy your meal. You can even take it down to the river and have your lunch by the river bank, all while admiring the crystal clear water and the spectacular mountain views.
Also, this would be a good time to fill up your water bottle as there is a free refilling station supplied with fresh and cold spring water right from the mountains of the national park. Let me say, it was absolutely refreshing!
Once you refueled, continue north towards Myojin Area. The trek from Kappa Bridge to Myojin Pond takes longer and is a little tougher compared to the trek from Taisho Pond. I took the route on the Azuza River Right Bank which goes through a variety of landscapes, from wetlands, wide, open meadows, to deep in the forest. The changing scenery was exciting and you have something to discover at every turn. However, do note that the trek is not flat - there are a lot of uphill and downhill sections along the trail.
It took about 2 to 3 hours one-way from Kappa Bridge to Myojin Area. Around Myojin Area, you can visit the Myojin Pond which houses the Hotaka Shrines. There is a 500 yen admission fee to enter the shrine and Myojin Pond, so do take note.
Once you have gone sightseeing at Myojin Pond and Myojin Bridge, you can start making your way back. You can either go the same way back or cross over the bridge and take the Azusa River Left bank trail for a change of scenery. I did not manage to go on this trail, but knowing Kamikochi, it would be equally beautiful nevertheless.
Once you are back to the Kappa Bridge area, it would already be late afternoon, so just right on time to catch a bus back to the city. That completes your adventure in Kamikochi.
Beginner Route:
Taisho Pond (bus stop)-> Taisho Pond -> Kappa Bridge -> Myojin Area -> Kappa Bridge -> Kamikochi Bus Terminal
For the more adventurous and looking for a thrilling trek, begin from the Kamikochi Bus Terminal and head north towards Myojin Area and continue onward from there towards Tokusawa Area. From Tokusawa area, you can head up to the peak of various mountains for those hard-core trekking trails.
Intermediate/ Advanced Route:
Kamikochi Bus Terminal-> Kappa Bridge -> Myojin Area -> Tokusawa Area -> Myojin Bridge -> Kappa Bridge -> Kamikochi Bus Terminal
Don’t worry about restrooms as well. There are several restroom stops along each route, so you will not have any problems when nature calls (get it? ‘Cause you are in nature).
You can find Kamikochi's route map here.
When to go
Kamikochi hiking season is open from mid-April to mid-November. For the rest of the year, it snows heavily in the region. Hence, it is not suitable for hiking.
Try to avoid the major Japanese holidays like Golden Week in May and Obon holiday around mid-August. There are usually throngs of people going on vacations and hikes, so it would be too crowded.
Hiking during the summer season, around July to September, would be the best time as the weather is neither too cold or too warm. As such, you do not need to bring too much warm gear.
Where to stay
Depending on where you are coming from, you can either be based in Takayama in Gifu Prefecture or Matsumoto in Nagano Prefecture. Personally, Takayama is closer for those coming from Kansai or West Japan and Matsumoto is more accessible if you are coming from Kanto or East Japan.
I stayed at the Residence Hotel Takayama Station which is conveniently located next to the Nohi Takayama Bus Center and just a 3-minute walk from Takayama JR Station. There is a convenience across the street and it is within walking distance to all the sightseeing spots in Takayama. Besides that, the rooms are spacious and it is more like a serviced apartment complete with a kitchen and washing machine.
What to bring & wear
I went to Kamikochi during the first week of August. As the Kamikochi is at a high elevation, the weather, even in the middle of summer, is cool and relatively drier. However, the mornings and evenings can be very chilly, reaching temperatures below 20 degrees Celcius, so it is highly recommended to bring a light parka to layer up. You can easily remove once it starts heating up during the day.
Also, proper hiking shoes or comfortable sneakers should be worn for an enjoyable hike. As the terrain can be rugged in some areas, supportive footwear would be essential.
In my experience, there were no mosquitoes, but it always pays to be prepared. So, do bring an insect repellent spray.
While there are restaurants and some stores selling snacks around Kappa Bridge and the bus terminal, it is best to pack with you light lunch which you could eat anywhere and anytime. You never know when you need a snack break, so do stop by the convenience store before boarding the bus for Kamikochi and bring some filling snacks. Most importantly, do not forget water too!
I hope you get inspired to visit the splendor of Kamikochi. I would say it is definitely worth the visit in summer. Even though you may not have hiked ever in your life, Kamikochi has trails for all levels of experience. Trust me, even young children and Japanese elders flock to Kamikochi and still having an amazing time.
So, see you in Kamikochi!
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