Most likely you have heard about Hokkaido, or even have been lusting to go there. It is situated on the Northern tip of Japan and it is the largest of the 47 prefectures. It is ski heaven for many during its winter months and a paradise for the nature aficionados during its warmer months. Hokkaido really has it covered for practically any kind of traveller. Food? Its seafood is said to be best. Nature? There are mountains, lakes and nature reserves for skiing, trekking, canoeing, bird-watching and the list goes on. And of course, we can not forget the hot springs which Japan is so synonymous with. Even those you have an abundance to choose from.
So, it is no surprise Hokkaido is a very popular tourist destination all year round. One of its
famous events is the Sapporo Yuki Matsuri, or Snow Festival usually held during the beginning of February in Sapporo city. During this festival, towering snow sculptures, a foray of ice sculptures, winter food markets and winter games such as ice-skating are set up across the city. So this year, I made it my mission to revel in the festivities. Also, having lived in a tropical country meant that we never get snow and it rarely ever snows in Osaka, so I was looking forward to feel the snow on my skin. *cue Natasha Bedingfield's "Unwritten"*
Hence, last February, I hopped on a plane and flew north to Hokkaido for four days.
Day 1
I arrived at the Chitose Airport when the sun was about to set. But from my plane window, I could see the snow-blanketed mountains. I was squealing inside, but of course, on the exterior, I had to remain cool (get it?). It takes over an hour to travel from the Chitose Airport to Susukino, which was in downtown Sapporo, by airport limousine bus. This is where all the action is. Also, highly recommend getting the airport bus as it is the cheapest (¥1,100 one-way) and the most convenient way to travel into town, especially with luggage. Tickets are readily available from ticket counters that are clearly marked, so you do not need to reserve online, and the bus runs frequently.
When the bus drove into the city, it began to snow. I was thinking, how lucky can I get. Snowfall on my first day. Nope, my first hour in Hokkaido. But little did I know, you probably would not want your vision obscured from the snowfall when you have to drag a suitcase around to your hotel while trying to not trip on ice and snow. My advice - make sure to wear hardwearing winter boots with a good grip and a hooded jacket to shelter you from the falling snow.
I checked in into the Smile Hotel Premium Sapporo Susukino, which was a chain business hotel located within 7 minutes of several train stations in the heart of Susukino. Also, it was within walking distance to the snow festival venue and other popular tourist attractions like Nijo Market and Sapporo TV Tower. The affordable price, despite being high peak season because of the festival, was a bonus too. Overall, the room was clean and comfortable, equipped with all the amenities you need and even sleepwear, which is why I love Japanese hotels. More space in the suitcase since you would not need to bring any pyjamas.
My first stop after check-in had to be dinner, since my last meal was more than six hours ago. The domestic terminals in Japan just do not have much food options. So I decided to head over to this popular ramen stall that serves halal lamb ramen, Horyu Ramen in Susukino. I had to wait in the cold for about thirty minutes, but can I just say, it was well worth the wait. I had the miso lamb ramen and it was the best thing to eat on an empty stomach during the chilling weather. The soup was so flavourful and the meat was exceptionally tender. You can not help but slurp every last drop of the soup, which in Japan, is highly encouraged as it means you are enjoying the food.
Once my tummy was happy and full, I decided to walk around the Susukino area where the street was decorated with ice sculptures and other illumination structures. The weird thing was, not only you had ice sculptures to feast your eyes on, but at some points, you had to tread on ice and there might have been a few moments where I shimmied in my steps from almost slipping. Regardless, it was beautiful to watch the illumination glisten on the ice sculptures amidst the snowfall.
Walking down Susukino street, you will end up at Odori Park, which is the main area of the Sapporo Snow Festival. This is where all the snow sculptures were built, some a staggering fifteen metres. The park was a long stretch, so I managed to only cover one end of the park. At this point, it was snowing so heavily that snow was building up on my head every thirty seconds and I was borderline panicking because it was getting hard to see, and to make matters worst, my phone died. My worst fears were coming true. I was lost and had no idea how to get back. I knew my hotel was nearby, that was why I chose that hotel, but I did not know the route. All I could do was walk the long way back where I came from (thank god for a photographic memory), and surprisingly enough, I made it back before the snowfall got heavier. And that is how I learnt that ALWAYS bring a portable charger when going out in cold weather.
Day 2
Since I did not get to finish the whole of Odori Park the night before, I decided to go back again to finish the other half. On the way to the park, I stopped by Nijo Market for some fresh seafood. I mean, come on, I was in Hokkaido. How could I not try the seafood? It was pretty busy in the morning. I managed to find a random stall that sold grilled seafood at reasonable prices. The only catch was that you had to eat while standing by the street, which I had no problem with. So, I got a grilled scallop to try and oh my god, you could tell it was really fresh. I know then I was in for an amazing culinary adventure.
Following my quick seafood pit-stop, I headed for Odori Park once more and luckily it was not snowing as bad as the night before. Just that I felt the snow piled on the sides of the street were blinding from reflecting the sunlight. So, lesson number two, wear sunglasses in the day. Besides having to squint most of the time, I was blown away by the sheer size of the snow sculptures. They even had a snow sculpture competition and even Singapore was part of it and placed fourth out of ten teams, maybe.
After that, I was off to Otaru, northwest of Sapporo on the limited express train. This coastal town is popular for a couple of reasons - seafood, confections and the Otaru Yuki Akari no Michi, or Snow Light Path Festival. I was recommended Le Tao, a confectionary shop founded in Otaru, by a few of my Japanese students, so that was my first stop in Otaru. The shop was packed but I managed to get a couple of cookies and chocolate. I even got myself a Milk Cream Puff, which was divine. Sooo creamy.
Then, I walked down the Sakaimachi street towards the Otaru Canal and came across another big confectionary store. I got curious and went in. Out I came with a couple more snacks, and this happened again at the confectionary store next door. Apparently, that street was where multiple popular confectionary brands were founded and they all had their own unique bestselling products. And since having finished all the snacks a while back, I can affirmatively report back that it was money well spent. They have the most buttery sponge cakes, the yummiest cookies (from fromage to matcha cookies) and the most interesting chocolate combinations (think chocolate and darjeeling tea). Another must-visit place and to-buy souvenirs in Hokkaido.
Tired from all that walking and since it was just about dinner time, I treated myself to a seafood rice bowl at Donburi Chaya. The rice bowl was topped with salmon, tuna, squid, king crab meat, scallop, shrimp and egg roll. Let me tell you something. Before that seafood bowl, I never know that raw seafood could be so sweet. You might even suspect them of dipping it in sugar syrup. I ate every last morsel, even the squid which I do not even eat cooked, much less raw. Seriously guys, the seafood in Hokkaido is on a whole other level.
To end the night, I finally reached the Otaru Canal for the Snow Light Path Festival and it was a sight to behold. The spotlights lighting up the facade of the old warehouses, lit candles floating in the canal and glowing lamps made of ice lining the promenade. It was absolutely magical and pretty romantic, I say. I spent the night casually strolling down the canal and the side alleys full of hidden ice installations that were simply captivating.
DAY 3
This was the last couple of hours in the Susukino area and I was bound for Chitose, an area near to the airport. The reason for moving to this location was to be closer to the Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival, which was easily accessible by bus from the Chitose bus terminal. It took about 45 minutes by train (approx. ¥1,180) from Susukino station to Chitose station. Fortunately, I booked the JR Inn Chitose which was right next to Chitose train station and across from the bus terminal, so the location could not have been more ideal. Also, for a business hotel, the room was spacious, especially the bathroom which was almost twice the size of any other bathroom in the Japanese business hotels that I have stayed in. One cool amenity they had, besides the regular amenities and sleepwear, was that they had a selection of different kinds of pillows in the lobby which you could simply pick and then nonchalantly walk across the lobby with the chosen pillow in hand. It looked kind of awkward but I definitely took advantage of it and had a wonderful night's sleep.
Back to the Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival, this festival is held on the banks of Lake Shikotsu and is only accessible by bus or car. The bus runs from the Chitose Airport to Lake Shikotsu and back, with a couple stops in between, one being the Chitose bus terminal. The bus schedule is updated every year and additional timings are added during the festival period, so do check it out before you go. You can purchase return tickets at ticket counters at the bus stations, but I recommend just using the prepaid IC card like ICOCA or Suica for convenience. Make sure you have enough value for the return trip as there are no top-up machines at Lake Shikotsu's bus stop. Also, it is best to time your trip there around mid-afternoon as you would want to have enough time to see the ice exhibitions in both daylight and after dark with the illumination, while still being able to catch the last bus back.
Once arrived at Lake Shikotsu, you will walk past a couple of small shops heading towards the shore of Lake Shikotsu. From there, you can relish in the tranquility of the lake and the beauty of the mountains in the distance. It was rare to experience such peace back in Osaka or Singapore. Once I had savoured the fresh air and serenity to my heart's content, I slowly made my way to the main entrance of the ice festival. Admission costs ¥300 and you get a postcard as your admission ticket. You then had to walk through an ice tunnel filled with different ice sculptures and scenes, after which you will arrive in the main square of the festival.
It was truly something extraordinary and different from what I could ever imagine. It was not mere igloos, for example. There were actual infrastructures made of ice - an ice shrine, ice chapel, ice rink, ice slides, colossal ice pillars and ice walls that were easily 3 stories high. They even had food stands, a free photo booth and a stage. My most favourite part of the ice festival was the ice castle/fort that you could actually walk to the top and have an amazing vantage point of the entire festival, and then you slowly make your way down a spiralling path around a tower. Did I mention it was made from only ice and bamboo poles as reinforcements? How amazing is that! Once it got dark, the illumination started to light up and the ice festival turned into a rainbow of colours. It was truly a spectacle. Of course, try not to get too distracted by the stunning sights around you, or you might miss the last bus back.
Day 4
It was the final day and there was nothing much to do. I checked out and since I had some time to kill as I had a late afternoon flight, I decided to go to the Rera Outlet Mall in Minami-Chitose, which was just the next station in the direction of the airport. So, all the more reason to go, right? Once at Minami-Chitose station, I left my suitcase in one of the coin lockers at the station so that I did not have to lug it around while shopping. It was way more convenient than using the coin lockers at the mall since I had to return back to the station anyways. The mall has a pretty good selection of your usual brands like Gap, Adidas, Nike, Coach and many local brands too, and it is typically not crowded from what I gathered. So, I guess it would be worthwhile to squeeze in a few last-minute purchases. After picking up a couple of items, it was time to head to the airport and fly back to Osaka.
Hokkaido has been the best trip in Japan to date. If I had a couple more days, I would have loved to visit the famous Asahiyama Zoo in Asahikawa where you could see a penguin parade, or go on a drift ice cruise in Abashiri. Well, there is always next time.
Hokkaido in winter is truly a winter wonderland. Especially coming from somewhere that does not get snow, Hokkaido exceeded far beyond my expectations, though sometimes too far with the incredibly heavy snowfall. And now, I am dying to go back in the warmer months instead to go canoeing on a lake or try their other famous speciality, Hokkaido dairy products like soft-serve or cheese. You can bet that I am counting down the days to summer.
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