Being located in the Kansai region, especially Osaka, is pretty convenient. You have quick and easy access to many neighbouring cities and prefectures via the extensive train networks which could easily whisk you away to somewhere new and exciting in a couple of hours. That means going on day trips is a great option to explore the surrounding areas during my day off, and that was what I exactly did about a week ago.
Recently, I decided to visit Ise in Mie Prefecture. Mie Prefecture is located along Japan’s southern coast and east of Osaka. Ise is one of its major cities located on the eastern end of the prefecture, near Ise Bay. It is home to Ise Jingu, or the Ise Grand Shrine, which is considered the holiest Shinto shrine in all of Japan. Besides attracting millions of worshippers to its shrine, it is also popular for its local delicacies such as seafood, Japanese traditional sweets and sake. Not only was I was interested to check out the historical shrine, I was also dying to finally see a beach. Shockingly, I have yet to visit a beach here in Japan. So, since it was near the coast, I was hoping that there was some kind of beach where I could finally bask in the ocean breeze, especially in this scorching summer heat.
The Journey
The day started off from Kintetsu Tsuruhashi station in Osaka where I was looking forward to my first ever experience onboard one of the many luxury sightseeing trains that run all over Japan. The Japanese appreciate the stunning nature that their country is blessed with, and on top of that, domestic travel is highly popular here. Hence, they have many dedicated sightseeing trains that wind round the mountains, go over rivers and across ravines where you can admire the flora in different seasons. I also see the ads for such trains all over the subway trains which got me intrigued in the first place.
For this occasion, my friend and I boarded the 6-car Sightseeing Limited Express “Shimakaze” operated by the Kintetsu Railway. It runs once a day, except Tuesdays, from Osaka-Namba station to Kashikojima in Ise-Shima. It also runs between Kyoto-Kashikojima and Nagoya-Kashikojima. The journey from Tsuruhashi and Iseshi, the stop nearest to Ise Jingu, took 1.5 hours through the countryside and mountainside and costs a total of 4010 yen, 1830 yen for the basic fare and 2180 yen for the additional fare on all limited express trains. You can purchase the limited express tickets online and the basic fare ticket from the ticket machine at the station. All seats on the train are premium, leather seats equipped with a USB charging port, electronic seats controls and Wifi. Highly recommend getting the seats in Car 1 or 6 as these are Observation Cars which have large windows for maximum enjoyment of the passing landscapes. There are private Japanese and Western-style rooms and Salon seating that are great for groups of up to 6 people. Not only that, there is also a double-deck cafe carriage where you can sit on the upper deck facing huge windows while you enjoy local delicacies from the Ise-Shima region being offered on the menu. Although, expect to wait in line for a seat.
Overall, it was a pleasant journey which I wished had lasted longer. The seats were comfortable, all the amenities available were spotless and the service was friendly. I can understand why these sightseeing trains are highly popular. Also, comparing to the journey back on the regular train service which took more than two hours, it was definitely worth the splurge. There are also other unique limited express trains running the same route, so you are spoilt for choice.
Ise Jingu (Geku)
Once arrived at Iseshi station, the first stop was the Ise Jingu (Geku), or the Outer Ise Grand Shrine which is the nearest to the station (map). Ise Grand Shrine is actually a complex of 125 shrines, with the two main ones being the Ise Jingu (Naiku), or the Inner Ise Grand Shrine, and Ise Jingu (Geku). The Outer Shrine is a 15-minute walk from the station. A torii gate marks the entrance of the compound and walking through the torii gate, you find yourself amidst towering, large trees. It was just so tranquil being surrounded by nature. Once in the centre of the compound, you can visit the various shrines but Ise Jingu (Geku), or locally known as Toyouke Daijingu, is dedicated to Tokyouke-Ōmikami, the god of food, clothing and shelter. Unfortunately, you can not take photos within the Outer Shrine. All the shrines were built in the quintessential traditional Japanese design that has been preserved over centuries using natural materials and no nuts and bolts. It is worth a visit for all of you architecture fanatics.
Ise Jingu (Naiku)
Next, we moved on to Ise Jingu (Naiku) which is the Inner Ise Grand Shrine that is the most important shrine within the entire Ise Jingu complex (map). The Inner Shrine is located several kilometres away, hence, the most convenient way to travel there is by bus. You can take bus number 51 or 55 from the bus stop near the torii gate of the Ise Jingu (Geku) compound (map). The bus ride takes about 20 minutes and costs 440 yen one-way. You can pay by cash or use an IC travel prepaid card. Ise Jingu (Naiku) is the final stop on the bus route and after walking about five minutes through an alley towards the direction of the shrine, you will be greeted by a massive torii gate at the start of the Uji Bridge that leads into the sacred world of the shrine.
An interesting fact of the bridge, and the entire Ise Grand Shrine complex as a matter of fact, is that the shrines and the bridge are torn down and rebuilt every 20 years, the most recent being in 2013. This ritual, called Shikinen Sengu, has been continued for over 1,300 years and it is done so because of the Shinto belief in the death and renewal of nature and to also pass down ancient building techniques from generation to generation. Hence, the original architectural design has been preserved throughout time.
Once you have crossed the bridge, you pass through a manicured garden before entering a forested compound lined with gravel pathways that lead to the Ise Jingu (Naiku) at the end of it. Ise Jingu (Naiku), or known as Kōtaijingū, is dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu, which is the spirit guardian of Japan. The Inner Shrine is highly revered within the Shinto religion and is considered the most venerable shrine in Japan. It houses one of the Three Sacred Treasures of Japan, the Sacred Mirror, which is believed to have been given to the first emperor of Japan by the goddess herself, though viewing of these treasures is reserved for the Japanese emperor and Shinto priests only. As this shrine is perched on a slight hill, with steps leading up to the shrine, it gives you a sense of how sacred the shrine is and you can feel the spiritual energy of the place and the surrounding nature.
Oharaimachi Street
Right by the Uji bridge is Oharaimachi Street, a main street with a network of alleys branching off of it that are dotted with traditional shophouses that sell all kinds of food and souvenirs. One of Ise's specialties is the seafood, specifically Ise shrimp. You can have it grilled or fried as tempura. There are also many stores that sell sake produced in Mie Prefecture and you can go for a tasting of the various sake on offer. Besides that, they sell all kinds of souvenir, from handmade fans to coin purses as well as Japanese sweets and snacks.
My personal recommendation is to try akafuku mochi from Akafuku Honten (map). It is a highly popular delicacy synonymous with the Ise-shima region. It is made of rice mochi and covered in a red bean paste. It has the right amount of sweetness and chewy texture, which simply put, tastes divine. I can see why there are lines to either buy boxes of it as souvenirs or to get a seat in the restaurant. The restaurant only serves one item - a set comprising of two pieces of akafuku served with a cup of hot hojicha (roasted Japanese green tea) for only 210 yen. The restaurant seating is tatami mat-style, so you have to take off your shoes and enjoy your Japanese sweets while sitting on the tatami mat. It makes for a wonderful opportunity to experience traditional Japanese-style dining and cuisine that should not be missed.
Also, in summer, many shops sell kakigori, or shaved ice covered in flavoured syrup, that are a blessing in the hot and humid Japanese summer. They serve all kinds of flavour, from matcha, lemon, cola, blueberry and more. There's bound to be one you like and I assure you, you will need one to cool off if you are travelling in Japan in summer.
Meoto Iwa
The final stop of the day was Meoto Iwa, or the "Wedded Rocks" (spoiler alert: I did make it to a beach!). They are a pair of sacred rocks in the ocean located in Futami, a small coastal town near Ise City. The pair is comprised of a larger and smaller rocks symbolising the union between the creators of kami (Shinto deities), Izanagi and Izanami, that a connected by a shimenawa rope, representing their sacred union. The rocks signify the marriage between a man and woman and are considered sacred and worshipped from a shrine nearby.
You can take a bus from Ise Jingu (Naiku) or the local train from Iseshi station to Futaminora station. We took the train after a quick pit stop for late lunch in Ise City and it costs 210 yen. You can either buy a ticket or pay by cash to the train conductor at the front of the train when you alight. You can not use the IC card as there are no ticket gantries in Futaminora station. It is quite a rural area, so to speak. From the station, it is about a 20-25 minute walk to Meoto Iwa. Once you have arrived, you can relish the ocean breeze and dig your toes into the sand. The water is calm and the beach is pretty clean. There is a promenade lining the span of the coast where you can enjoy a leisurely stroll or you can head out onto the breakwater that goes out to the ocean where you can watch the sunset, which I did, or see the Meoto Iwa rocks from a distance. Further up from the beach, is the Futamiokitama shrine where you will have a closer view of the sacred rocks.
I was so glad to have timed it perfectly to be able to enjoy the cool ocean breeze after a day in the scorching sun and watch as the sun falls beneath the horizon. It was the best end to the trip that one could ask for. After that, we headed back to Osaka, marking the end of our day trip to Ise.
I hope you can one day visit the Ise Grand Shrine in Mie Prefecture to witness the holiest Shinto site and admire the traditional architecture, while trying all the amazing food that they have to offer.
Do check out the following Youtube video for a snippet of what I did in Ise. Appreciate if you could give it a like, share and subscribe to my Youtube channel! Enjoy!
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